Colorado camp 9,033' cam September 30 - here's our driveway this morning - several big storms have rolled through, dumping snow in the high country and blowing leaves off the aspens - BUT most of the state remains at peak color and BEAUTIFUL!

Journal updated on the 23rd

09/01/21 The new trail reroute I did through the historic homesite area on our property is yielding its first crop of wild plums - and oh my goodness they are colorful, numerous, and TASTY! Only one small issue - they are TINY! Wild ones are usually smaller than tame ones, but these guys were about the size of my thumbnail. I’ve only seen and tasted ones on the ground - an equal amount of bright purple and blues ones. None ever made it back to the cabin.

MISSING HIKER. The search continues this morning for Theresa Beshara-Cox, who reportedly headed into the woods Monday morning at 5:30am (on the trail to Hawksbill Crag) and has not been seen nor heard from since. She is a very experienced hiker and noted photographer and has spent a great deal of time off trail in difficult terrain over the years. The search and rescue efforts are ongoing and hopes are high she will be found... NOON UPDATE - THERESA HAS BEEN FOUND AND all is well - YIPPIE COYOTE!

9/02/21 After yet another spectacular light and sea-of-fog show this morning (above), I made a quick trip around the trail and found the very same terrapin - less than TEN FEET away from where I saw him yesterday! I know these guys are slow, but come on!

Mushrooms have popping up all over this week -

Late morning we packed up the camper van and headed west, hoping to spend a few days at our campsite at 9,000’ in the San Juan Mountains of south central Colorado. We had a few things to do in town so didn’t really get out of Fayetteville until after 3, which put us right in the middle of 5pm rush hour traffic in Tulsa. I was dreading this. But son of a gun, I never had to even hit the brakes a single time and we made it through town in 20 minutes! Temps hovered in the mid-90’s on into the pan handle of Oklahoma but at least I was not fighting crosswinds too much.

For once in a long while we had reserved a campsite at a state park so we could run the AC all night instead of stopping beside the highway to sleep. (Boiling Springs State Park). Good move...

09/03/21 We got an early start and soon were in New Mexico cruising alongside dozens of volcanoes in the cool morning air. We love the northeast corner of NM, and it’s easy driving. Soon we were up and over two mountain passes into Colorado and pulling up the long (2.5-mile) access road to our campsite - just as a storm was happening. The temp dropped from 80 to 56 in a couple of minutes, and our dusty road was dusty no more! A carpet of bright YELLOW aspen leaves dotted our little camping spot, the rain had stopped, and oh my goodness it was GREAT to be back in the mountains again!

Somewhere along the way the fridge/freezer in the camper van decided to quit - probably the compressor. Luckily we have a fullsize (but small) standup one in the shed at our campsite, so were able to transfer all foods without any issues. Two issues with this broken fridge unit - first, finding someone to fix it, and then being able to PAY for it (RV fixes are usually always much more costly then normal ones!). And secondly, we had planned on making a trip or two elsewhere while we were here but now may not be able to - hate to hit the road without refrigeration. Oh well.

As the evening light show began I made my usual hike up to the top of the road here, and I was able to make it the full way without stopping to huff and puff - it was great to be back in the thin air.

09/04/21 39 degrees at first light, and my hike up to the top felt great! We spent today doing some campsite chores (who am I kidding - we really mostly just sat around all day enjoying the cool weather and the view - then I ran into town for pizza - about the only place we’ll be able to order take-out from while we’re here). There was a spectacular sunset that lit up mountains for miles and miles around.

 

09/05/21 Shhh don’t tell anyone, but my lovely bride and I recently been following Formula 1. Those of you who know already know what I mean. Neither of us have ever followed other types of auto racing, but we starting watching the Netflix F1 Drive To Survive series and got hooked - watched all three seasons twice already. I had NO IDEA what this was all about, and oh my goodness, it is just AMAZING! Of course, the Netflix is always a year behind and don’t get normal TV so had never seen it live. But on a whim - and under the radar of my lovely bride - I invested $4.95 for a month’s subscription to F1 TVpro. (Oops, that might have not been a good idea.) So the first race we could watch was last Sunday - the beginning of the second half of their 2021 season. We were both quite excited and all hyped up to be able to watch, but guess what - for the first and ONLY time in their entire history, the race was rained out! (they actually did two laps in formation just so it would count, but it wasn’t a race) This was in Belgium.

Well, it just so happens that since the screen on my only computer is on the blink I had to haul a giant 30” external screen with us to Colorado so I could work - we set up an F1 viewing station in the front of the camper van. The pre-race started at 6am this morning (it was in Holland), and we were glued to the tube every moment - we finally got to watch a race live, yippie!

FYI, as an environmental note about Holland - the resort town where the three-day race event was held would not allow any cars to enter town, so all the spectators (70,000 per day) had to either ride bikes from nearby town (they rented 25,000 bikes for fans to use), or take a train (all the trains in Holland are powered by WINDMILLS!). It was one of the most incredible sporting events I’d ever seen - and while the fans were not regulated in any way, every single person involved with the race in any way down on the track, in the pits, or in the race offices, were ALL MASKED! (all F1 races this year and last are operated this was so far)

Then we went on a gorgeous hike around one of our loops with the puppies, climbed to the top of the big granite rock in front of our campsite (that is in so many of my daily photos), and have generally spent another day in the mountains - mostly just sitting around enjoying life. I’m having ramen noodles for dinner with the last of Pam’s home-grown tomatoes (I bet it’s a lot better than the pizza). Then we’ll sit back and take in another great evening light show, with another quick hike to the top by sunset. I hear it’s been cool and raining back home in Arkansas - way to go - keep it up - fall is just around the corner!

Here's the view looking down at our little campsite in the aspens (just below the red dot) - our lot goes about half way up the hill - the rest above is national forest.

09/07/21 Traffic jam on the lower trail/road this morning - our campsite is located inside a 1,500-acre former cattle ranch and is home to 80 freerange cattle during the summer (as a result of the "agri" status of the land we only pay $40 property taxes for our little campsite plot). 41 degrees this morning.

09/08/21 Spent a few minutes with the stars above our campsite late last night - standing in the middle of the road with my bathrobe on (it was after my bedtime). That's an Iridium satellite "flare" (not a meteor or airplane).

09/09/21 BEAUTIFUL at sunrise -

09/10/21 This is what happened last night when a car drove through the scene about a mile away (the small white dot in the lower right is our campsite)

09/11/21 My lovely bride snd her pup on a big log at our campsite enjoying some afternoon sunshine...

09/13/21 We’re camped/parked tonight on the shore of a small lake near the Colorado/Wyoming border. It was a beautiful drive up from our usual campsite with scattered aspens and lots of underbrush beginning to BLAZE in all their glory - MUCH more color than we ever expected to see this early in the season! We’re headed to the Tetons to spend a few days there and maybe a little bit in the Wind River Mountains. The sky is pretty clear of smoke and brilliant blue with puffy white clouds floating about.

We’ve had a great week (plus a few days) in Colorado so far, with LOTS of wildlife topping the list. There’s been the usual fair of hawks, Hawks, and more HAWKS - including a pair of GIANT hawks that have been more like golden eagles than any hawks I’ve ever seen. They’ve been spending a lot of time hunting in a nearby prairie dog town (1/4 mile from our 9,033’ campsite), but also soaring about and playing games and just generally tearing up the skies over our meadow too. Some are really large redtail hawks, but the giant eagle-like ones are much larger with completely different markings. (no pictures - I don’t have a wildlife camera).

There has been an abundance of not only mule deer lurking around, but especially FAWNS and LOTS of them! I’ve counted at least four different does with a fawn, multiple does with twin fawns, and one doe with triplets. One group I saw early one morning as I was climbing towards the top of the hill had at least five does and five fawns, plus one young buck. Another group of five does & fawns I’ve seen together in several different places. And one doe with single fawn has been spotted within 100’ of the same spot more than a dozen times. I’ve only seen one really giant buck this trip, and I hear he took part in one of my Milky Way photos, kind of.

But the really big deal wildlife sighting was just a couple of days ago as we were watching the start of the Formula 1 Italian Grand Prix at Monza (watching on my large external computer screen in the front seat of the van). I happened to notice some movement out of the corner of my eye and turned to see an adult COUGAR calmly walking across the meadow less than 200’ away! OH MY GOSH!!! We’ve heard rumors of a big cat living in the volcano plug that is the center of our main view just behind the meadow, but no one has ever produced a photo, not in all the years we’ve heard reports of this cat or any other that’s been spotted on the ranch where our campsite is.

It was an instant ID - no mistaking this guy was indeed a mountain lion/cougar/puma, or whatever you want to call it. So there he was, walking just outside the puppy fenceline as I scrambled to find a camera - and when I did, Pam said he had disappeared! I knew the camera was not set up correctly for shooting wildlife, so in case we saw the big cat again I wanted to be ready, and I changed some of the settings (be feel), then raised the camera to set an exposure that would be close - just in time to hear Pam say “there he is again!”

Turns out the big cat had gone down into a small drainage that is Sierra Creek and probably took a sip or two, then climbed back out and continues to walk across the meadow. I didn’t want to shoot a picture through thee van glass (that was smudged quite a bit with PUPPY NOSE PRINTS - and I knew if I opened thee door the cat would probably disappear. But I took the chance - after all he was RIGHT THERE in front of me for crying out loud! So in one motion I opened the big door of the van, stepped out, raised the camera - the cat stopped, turned, and looked directly at me - I put the tiny square focus spot in the camera viewfinder right on his nose, then took a single picture - an the cat immediately turned and bounded off and it was all over. I had no idea if I got a photo or not.

But I did know where the cat was headed - to the other side of the meadow and most likely across the road and into the thick woods up the hill. I would only have one chance to see him again (and try to get a photo), so I instinctively took off down our short driveway through the aspen trees to the road where I hoped he would be crossing, but I found only eerie silence. I froze and looked all around so carefully. Nothing. But there was one thing - about 50 feet away from me on top of a pile of large cutup, logs that had been burned in the big fire twenty years ago, sat a jack rabbit with those giant pink ears. He was literally frozen in place, and I watched him for several seconds, even walked around a little bit but he never moved or twitched a bit. I figured the cat had to have run within a few yards of him before crossing the road, and the poor rabbit must have done a great job of becoming a statue and not being eaten by the cougar. Not wanting the same fate I slowly turned around and headed back to a very unhappy wife. Rule #1 is probably NEVER chase after dangerous wildlife with a camera - OOPS!

Funny, but soon after the F1 race ended (with both of our favorite drivers involved in a wreck and one of them literally on TOP of the other - only a special safety device called a “halo” saved the other driver’s life), I took off on my normal quick hike to the top of the hill and back. I was on constant watch for the cat the entire way but I didn’t worry too much about it. Later in the day during my evening stroll up to the top and back I DID worry about that darn cat every step of the way! It was a very uneasy hike and I suspect the cat was long gone, but still I kept one hand on my can of bear spray always (not that it would do any good - cats like to stalk their prey, then in a flash get them in a death grip without making a sound - much too quickly for a mere mortal like me to react in time.

Ever since we were visited by the big cat both of us scan the meadow and all around pretty much every moment we are outside, looking for any sign of the ghost of the wilderness that finally let us get a good closeup look.

Otherwise we’ve mostly just been hanging around camp and avoiding people - only getting takeout food just twice - and doing a lot of grilling and eating smoothies and wraps, and lots and lots of hiking. It’s been pretty hot for September at 9,033’ - up into the mid 80s during the day with humidity levels 10-12%. I continue to be lazy and have been unable to find a seated position where I can work. We don’t pay much attention to the news - only F1 news! Next race is in Russia in two weeks.

It’s been a while since I’ve been to the Tetons - one of those very special “vortex” sort of places that always amazes me. We’re hoping the smoke will remain away long enough for our visit. We had originally planned on nine days there and enjoy their major painting events throughout the week, but now we decided no crowds for us, so won’t be attending any of the events. I still look much better in a mask so always wear one, I just won’t be going inside anyplace nor be around groups of people - everyone just need to get vaccinated AND WEAR MASKS so we can get all of this over with.(THANKS TO ALL WHO HAVE!!!)

OK, twilight is complete and a bright half-moon is lightning up the lake next to us, think I’ll put this away before my back starts screaming and go enjoy a little moonlight on the water.....

09/15/21 Sunrise from our campsite at Brooks Lake along the Continental Divide in Wyoming (it was 25 degreees - YIKES!).

09/21/21 Today is the last day of summer - tomorrow is the autumnal equinox and beginning of FALL - YIPPIE! It was 27 degrees when I stepped outside this morning at dawn and we’re already seeing some very nice color so I’d say the calendar is just about right on the money. We got back to our 9,033’ campsite in Colorado a couple of days ago after a week on the road - the road was great, but it’s nice to be back in camp and away from crowds. Here’s a little recap of our trip.

Day 1. We got a very late start (mid-afternoon) and headed north up through the headwaters of the Arkansas River. There were some incredible colors beyond Leadville as we topped the Continental Divide and follow the White River down to Frisco and Silverthorne. We passed a historical spot of mine along the way - many years ago while snowshoeing in deep snow along the banks of the White River when I stopped to plant my tripod and take a picture, one of my snowshoes broke through the snow and I went into the frigid water - YIKES it was cold! (below zero). I managed to keep my balance and immediately pulled my leg out of the water and couldn’t believe my eyes! I had caught a TROUT with my snowshoe!!! (you may read about this incident again in a book one day). The only thing I could figure is that when the snowshoe went down into the water the trout got caught beneath it and managed to swim up through a large hole in the snowshoe (below where the binding is), and when I raised my leg up he simply got caught on top of the shoe! How many folks to you know that have caught a trout with their snowshoe? Arkansas River Headwaters area (below):

Anyway, it was an easy and beautiful drive from Frisco north along the Blue River towards Steamboat Springs, then we turned off on a lonely state highway that followed grizzly creek and past Walden Pond. Seems like the character of the landscape and the traffic changed along this route. And just before dark we found a terrific dispersed camping area at the edge of a long lake - only a couple camper vans in the entire area, it was really beautiful, and also FREE!

Day 2. I got up around 4am to wander around our camping spot a little big and took a few photos of the stars and lake - it was so dark and quiet - the sort of place where you can stand and hear not only your heart beating, but also thoughts from your soul. As dawn approached I was thrilled to see and photograph a bit of Zodiacal light beaming up behind the mountain range of Rocky Mountain National Park.

As sunrise arrived we found ourselves immersed in a world that reminded me of a special part of Iceland I’d visited and photographed oh so many years ago (Veioivotn area of the Central Highlands). It was just AWE INSPIRING!!! The landscape all around was bare - no trees - with thick fog and veils of mist rising - hiking and driving through the area were equally stunning. I only took a few photos - there was really no way for a camera to capture the feeling of it all.

The photo below IS ICELAND - but I wanted to show you what I was taking about (I did't get any good photos today):

By mid afternoon we had landed at a favorite camping spot of ours at Brooks Lake, which is located right on the edge of the Continental Divide (and next to a REALLY expensive small resort lodge - we could never even afford a pass through the front door much less spend a night there - but no matter - we had the campground almost to ourselves, along with the incredible lake and surrounding forest. We were shocked to find only two other campers there - this campground was also FREE! (since the summer season had ended) Needless to say we were happy campers.

Day 3 began just before dawn as I was taking the pups for a hike around part of the lake when I noticed a hint of orange just kissing the tops of the sheer rock faces on the west side of the lake. SUNRISE was happening, and I was on the wrong side of the lake! while most photographers tend to point their cameras AT the sunrise, I prefer looking in the opposite direction there the light is often much more colorful and dramatic.

Soon I had ditched the pups and was at the edge of the lake with camera in hand watching the magic happen. Unlike sunset, the color begins at the top and continues down the rock faces until it reaches the level land/lake below - although by that time the color of the early sunshine is usually pretty calm. But I got a photo that I wanted, and it had already been a GREAT DAY!

We were on a mission to meet our friends at their campground near the edge of Grand Teton National Park so we loaded up the van and headed west, then spent the rest of the day visiting with them (at a crowded campground - we were all always outdoors and well spaced).

That evening we planned to take some pictures of the Tetons at sunset, but had to look around a bit to find a viewpoint that wasn’t crowded. After seeing quite a few wildlife species along the way (elk, giant buck deer, and a black bear, all right next to the road), we pulled into an unmarked wide spot in the road that I’ve always referred to as the “Gin & Tonic Overlook.” (there’s one guy who I hope is reading this that will understand, hahahaha)

We had a great view looking directly across at Mt. Moran and the Teton range, with the bright sun ball sliding down one side - which created some pretty strong sun beams that engulfed the entire Mt. Moran at times. It was stunning right on the road, but my photo buddy and I decided the view would be much better if we climbed up a bit above the overlook, and oh my it was TERRIFIC! A funny thing happens when photographer sets up a tripod along a road in a national park - CROWDS GATHER! Which was another reason why we hiked up above the road - to stay AWAY from other people. It was an amazing sunset (though not nearly as much gin was consumed as before - in fact none).

Day 4 found us headed back up to the Continental Divide - in fact to a small lake/pond right on the divide - where my lovely bride set up her pastel equipment to paint an amazing show of light and color (that we had briefly seen the morning before in passing). I took the pups on a hike around the lake and bushwhacked around a bit until a strong gust of wind blew through and knocked all of her equipment over! This would be a sign of things to come...

We spent the rest of the day back in the Tetons - part of it just driving around looking for wildlife - AND cooking dinner! Many RV and camper van folks know the secret of filling a crock pot with goodies and let it cook as you drive along, and at the end of the day you have DINNER! We did, and it was GREAT!!!

Day 5 found us back on the road headed to an overlook of Jenny Lake at the base of the Tetons - even this time of year this spot (located on a one-way loop) is usually packed and no place to park, but when we arrived right after sunrise we found it almost EMPTY! This is no surprise to nature photographers everywhere, but very few folks will make the effort to get up and arrive at a scenic spot early - so if you don’t want to fight crowds, just get out of bed you sleepy head - and the light will be SO MUCH BETTER anyway! The black & white photo below is one I took from where Pam was painting from:

Pam did another pastel (she was hidden off the trail in the trees) while the rest of us hiked around in different directions. (the temp was in the 20’s and I may have delivered hand warmers and hot cocoa to my bride to keep her spirits up) It was a great morning, though we parted ways with our friends (who were headed to the Flaming Gorge area along the Wyoming/Utah border).

After another beautiful drive UP to the Continental Divide we decided to head back up to Brooks Lake just to see how crowded it was on a Friday night. SHOCK and AWE again! There were only three campers in the 13-site campground, and only one camper in the other campground - we had our pick of the best sites right on the lake - are you KIDDING?!

I did happen to overhear a conversation with a camper who told another camper that it was impossible to hike completely around the lake (voices travel a long way out here at altitude). I took that as a challenge, and soon I was already half-way around the lake - of course. And indeed the trail disappeared, but what the heck - no one ever heard of BUSHWHACKING? I could easily see over all the willow bushes and the terrain was flat and I had a blast making my way moose-like through it all to the barren hillside over there. Piece of cake!

Back at the campsite my bride had fixed another great dinner and we dined with one of the great views of the west directly in front of us. The last part of the day found me back on the other side of the lake as sunset happened behind me, and while there was smoke in the air I was still able to capture a few snapshots of the cliffs known as Pinnacle Butts West, which rose directly behind our campsite. (opposite direction and on the other side of the lake from the cliffs I posted above)

Day 6 found us back on the road way before dawn - we had to have cell service for a gallery visitor back home in case there were any questions (Pam’s dad handles all of the gallery visits while we are away, but we still want to have phone contact just in case). So we made tracks to Dubois, then continued on across the Wind River Indian Reservation to my old stomping grounds of Lander - where we drove up, UP, and away to a small campground high in the Wind River Mountains.

I’ve loved the forest service since I got a job with them at age 17, but I must say I was embarrassed to admit it as we approached this campground - which is one of, if not THE most popular access point on the entire national forest. The 2.5 mile road into the campground is perhaps the worst I’ve ever seen on any national forest anywhere. Oh my, I could not list enough cuss words here to describe it fully. I was ashamed to have ever worked on this forest. We turned around and left. I know there are a lot of things to spend money on, but the folks who manage this district have their heads in the wrong place.

And I guess they must have heard my thoughts ‘cause when we got back to town and headed south there were bit signs warning that the highway ahead was closed to vans like our due to 60+mph winds! We took an alternate route and kept going south until we almost reached Colorado - and the winds were the worst I’ve ever driving in (I say that a lot). It was great to find a small forest service campground near dark, and guess what - even on a Saturday night we were the ONLY campers in the nine-site campground. (maybe it was the road?) Ahhh but this access road was a super highway compared to the previous one.

What do you think of when you see Platte River? Usually a flat, shallow creek across the plain. Turns out there is a Wilderness Area in the headwaters of the North Platte, and there is no “flat” terrain in sight - in fact the river runs through a narrow canyon, and the campground was right at the edge. The pups and I hiked down into the gorge a couple of times, and it was beautiful.

Day 7 began at 1am when Mia woke me up. I got her outside and we wandered around for 30 minutes while she hunted for the perfect spot to due her business. I didn’t mind - an almost full moon light up everything around us, including groves of aspen trees, and gorge and river below. Only problem was - Wilson got me back up at 4am for the same business!

We packed up and motored on south at dawn, passing through the “Iceland Landscape” near Walden and once again along Grizzly Creek. Then the road and our mindsets changed - when we turned left on the highway that runs from Steamboat Springs to I-70 the personality of the traffic changed - even though it was Sunday morning, it seemed that everyone was in a big hurry, and even though I was driving the speed limit there usually were a dozen or more cars behind me - I stopped often to let them all pass.

After a long drive back to our Colorado campsite I was happy to put on my hiking boots and make a quick run up the hill to the top - though for the first time I can remember, I was nearly blown over by the strong winds up there, and I had to hike with my stocking cap pulled half-way over my sunglasses and both hands cupped around my eyes to keep the blowing dust at bay - OH MY, THE WIND!!!

Funny, but the main reason we purchased this plot of burned-off hillside in Colorado six years ago was so that we could use it as a base camp for adventures like this past week has been. But this was actually our FIRST such adventure in all those years! I guess we ended up loving our little campsite so much that we hate to leave it, even to make a run up to the Tetons...

Evening update. It is stunningly beautiful outside here tonight. It is cold and the air is quite clear and there are a zillion stars twinkling - not much to get in the way of the view above 9,000 feet! The just-past-full moon has risen and is beaming across the meadow below and also lighting up some aspen trees that are just out of my reach when I stand on the edge of our campsite. Several of the aspens are at peak color, and the longer I stand there, the more of that color I can see (as my eyes adapt to the dark). Peak fall aspen color by moonlight in the Colorado Rockies - probably with John Denver looking down on us. All I need now is my lovely bride to go snuggle up with and I’ll be all set - HONEY, save me some space under that down comforter!

09/23/21 It was kinda chilly when I bundled up and headed o ut for an early hike at dawn (dawn is when the sky first begins to get light - usually colored light - but still 30 -60 minutes before sunrise). I heard a cry and looked up at a hawk circling directly above me. Each time it circled it moved forward a bit. He was looking down on me, sort of motioning me to keep trekkin’ on up the steep hills. I followed, wondering where he was leading me. Sometimes on these early morning hikes I have to kick it into high gear right away since the temp low, which was the case this morning at 32 degrees. It’s either put on a jacket and hike slow, or not put on a jacket and hike fast so you heat up in a hurry, which is what I normally do.

Two or three corners later I looked up and the hawk had disappeared, but I saw movement ahead right where the close ridgetop edge met the colorful sky. There was a big mule deer buck standing there, broadside, looking right down at me. I reached into my pocket and turned on the phone, then hit the zoom button, pointed it at the buck and pressed the button. On these little pocket phones even the “long” lenses are pretty wide angle, and so this guy was little more than a spec on the ridgetop - but it was all I had. He turned slightly and I snapped another photo. Then one more as he turned to walk away.

Always a wildlife photographer, always wanting to get closer, I choose a route down the hillside a ways that night put me in a spot to see him on the ridgetop again, but my plan failed - I saw him again and we were closer to each other, but he was down in the brush and the camera could barely see him. I was done. No matter, one of the three snapshots I got of him was sharp and I was able to crop it enough to produce a photo you see here - I hope you can get a sense of being there looking at this guy straight on like I did - kindred spirits out in the early light of another beautiful day...

 

Journal Archives - previous months

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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